STONE-FACED DOLLY’S, 479 Bronson Ave (230 2088), is one of my favourite two or three Ottawa restaurants. There is a limited menu, with three or four daily specials up on the blackboard – meat/fish/vegetarian. Fresh ingredients, pleasant service, wine list includes South African, Australian. Prices? Quite reasonable, considering the high quality of the food and wine.

The proprietor, downsized from the hi-tech sector a couple of years ago, re-cycled himself as a restauranteur, drawing on some good government re-training schemes.

His formula for Stone-faced Dolly’s? excellent food, modest locale (he can’t be paying a big rent where they are on Bronson), not too big (about 25 clients at a time). Has the formula succeeded? Just try getting in without a restaurant any night they are open!

Brian Northgrave

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